Sains Malaysiana 39(2)(2010): 233–237

Kegunaan Cetyl Cacaoate^TM dalam Pembangunan Gincu: Penilaian Sensori

(Uses of Cetyl CacaoateTM in Lipstick Development: Sensory Evaluation)

Samuel Yap Kian Chee* ¹, H. Sarini¹, A. Aminah² & S. Sabariah¹

¹Lembaga Koko Malaysia, Lot 3, Jalan P/9B, Seksyen 13, 43650 Bandar Baru Bangi, Selangor, Malaysia

²Fakulti Sains Dan Teknologi, Universiti Kebangsaan Malaysia

43600 Bangi, Selangor, Malaysia

Received: 17 March 2009 / Accepted: 27 July 2009

ABSTRAK

Kegunaan Cetyl CacaoateTM dalam pembangunan produk gincu telah dinilai dengan mengubah nisbah campuran lilin carnauba, jojoba ester dan Cetyl CacaoateTM berdasarkan reka bentuk uji kaji Simplex centroid {3,3} melalui penilaian sensori oleh sembilan orang panel terlatih dengan kaedah analisis diskriptif kuantitatif. Atribut-atribut yang dipersetujui untuk penilaian sensori dalam sesi pembangunan bahasa sensori adalah senang disapu, bau tengik, kekerasan, tektur, kelembapan, kesan sapuan, berkilat, berminyak, keselesaan selepas guna dan warna kekal. Keputusan menunjukkan bahawa kehadiran Cetyl CacaoateTM dalam pemformulasian gincu akan meningkatkan skor bagi atribut senang disapu tetapi akan merendahkan skor bagi atribut kekerasan. Kehadiran Cetyl CacaoateTM memberi gincu lebih berminyak manakala lilin carnauba mengurangkan kesan berminyak. Tiada bau tengik yang dikesan dalam semua sampel. Analisis variasi antara panel menunjukkan terdapat kebezaan pendapat antara panel dalam penilaian sampel-sampel bagi atribut keselesaan selepas guna dan warna kekal. Nisbah lilin-lilin kosmetik dalam pemformulasian dasar gincu yang mempunyai skor yang hampir sama dengan sampel rujukan adalah 1/2 Cetyl CacaoateTM : 1/2 jojoba ester atau 2/3 Cetyl CacaoateTM : 1/6 jojoba ester : 1/6 lilin carnauba.

Kata kunci: Analisis diskriptif kuantitatif; atribut sensori; gincu; penilaian sensori

ABSTRACT

The use of Cetyl CacaoateTM in lipstick formulation was evaluated by varying the porpotion of waxes mixture among carnauba wax, jojoba ester and Cetyl CacaoateTM based on Simplex centroid {3,3} experimental design. Sensory evaluation was carried out by nine trained panels using quantitative descriptive analysis (QDA) method. The attributes agreed in the sensory languages development session were easy to apply, off flavor, hardness, texture, moist, appearance on lip after use, glossy, oily, comfortability after use, and long lasting. Results showed that Cetyl CacaoateTM increased the score of easy to apply but decreased the score for hardness. Cetyl CacaoateTM in the lipstick formulation increased the oily feels whereas carnauba wax gave less oily effect. No off flavor was detected for all the samples. However, the panels had different perception on comfortability after use, and long lasting. The ratio of cosmetic waxes in lipstick formulation which gave scores close to reference sample were 1/2 Cetyl CacaoateTM : 1/2 jojoba ester and 2/3 Cetyl CacaoateTM : 1/6 jojoba ester : 1/6 lilin carnauba.

Keywords: Lipstick; quantitative descriptive analysis; sensory attribute; sensory evaluation

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*Corresponding author; email: samuel@koko.gov.my