Sains Malaysiana 47(5)(2018): 951–959
http://dx.doi.org/10.17576/jsm-2018-4705-10
Natural Ingredients in
Cosmetics from Malaysian Plants: A Review
(Bahan Semula jadi dalam Kosmetik daripada Tumbuhan di Malaysia: Suatu Sorotan)
HASMIDA MOHD-NASIR1 & SITI HAMIDAH MOHD-SETAPAR1,2,3*
1Centre
of Lipid Engineering and Applied Research (CLEAR), Ibnu Sina Institute for
Scientific and Industrial Research, Universiti Teknologi Malaysia, 81310 UTM Johor Bahru, Johor Darul Takzim, Malaysia
2Faculty
of Chemical and Energy Engineering, Universiti Teknologi Malaysia, 81310 UTM Johor Bahru, Johor Darul Takzim, Malaysia
3SHE Empire Sdn Bhd, No 44, Jalan Pulai Ria 2, Bandar Baru Kangkar Pulai,
81300 Skudai, Johor Darul Takzim, Malaysia
Received:
11 July 2017/Accepted: 28 November 2017
ABSTRACT
Consumer consciousness
on the concept of natural-based ingredients triggers the natural
cosmetics market to grow. The active compounds in natural ingredients
offer valuable bioactivities such as antioxidant, photoprotection,
anti-aging and anti-inflammatory actions that useful for skincare,
hair care and dental care. This review presents an overview on
natural ingredient, especially plant-derived, used in cosmetic
products and the examples of Malaysian plants used for cosmetic
purposes.
Keywords: Active
compounds; bioactivities; cosmetic; natural ingredient; plant-derived
ABSTRAK
Kesedaran pengguna terhadap konsep bahan berasaskan semula jadi mencetuskan perkembangan pasaran kosmetik semula jadi. Sebatian aktif dalam bahan-bahan semula jadi menawarkan bioaktiviti yang berharga seperti antioksidan, perlindungan sinaran, anti-penuaan dan anti-radang yang berguna untuk penjagaan kulit, penjagaan rambut serta penjagaan pergigian. Kertas ini membentangkan gambaran keseluruhan berkenaan bahan-bahan semula jadi, terutamanya daripada tumbuhan, yang digunakan dalam produk kosmetik dan contoh tumbuhan di Malaysia yang digunakan untuk tujuan kosmetik.
Kata kunci: Bahan semula jadi; bioaktiviti; janaan tumbuhan; kosmetik; sebatian aktif
REFERENCES
Abou-Arab,
A.A., Abu-Salem, F.M. & Abou-Arab, E.A. 2014. Physico-chemical properties of natural pigments
(anthocyanin) extracted from Roselle calyces (Hibiscus subdariffa). Journal of American Science 7(7): 445-456.
Aburjai,
T. & Natsheh, F.M. 2003. Plant used in comestics. Phytotherapy Research 17: 987-1000.
Ahmad,
H. & Rajagopal, K. 2014. Salvadora persicaL. (Meswak) in
dental hygiene. The Saudi Journal for Dental Research 5(2):
130-134.
Alleman,
I.B. & Baumann, L. 2009. Botanicals in skin care
products. International Journal of Dermatology 48: 923-934.
Ali,
B., Al-Wabel, N.A., Shams, S., Ahamadm,
A., Khan, S.A. & Anwar, F. 2015. Essential oils
used in aromatherapy: A systemic review. Asian Pacific Journal of Tropical
Biomedicine 5(8): 601-611.
Ammar,
N.M., Mohammed, S.H., Doha, A.M., Nabil, E.K., Ahmed, H.A. & Tom, J.M.
2011. Phytochemical and biological studies of butea frondosaRoxb. leaves growing in Egypt. Medical Journal of Islamic World
Academy of Sciences 19(4): 173-180.
Antignac,
E., Nohynek, G.J., Re, T., Clouzeau,
J. & Toutain, H. 2011. Safety of botanical ingredients in personal care
products/cosmetics. Food and Chemical Toxicology 49: 324-341.
Anunciato,
T.P. & Filho, P.A.d.R.
2011. Carotenoids and polyphenols in nutricosmetics,
nutraceuticals, and cosmeceuticals. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 11:
51-54.
Argyropoulou,
A., Aligiannis, N., Trougakos,
I.P. & Skaltsounis, A.L. 2013. Natural compounds with anti-ageing activity. Natural
Product Reports 30: 1412-1437.
Aziz,
Z.A.A., Ali, S.A.M., Ahmad, A. & Mohd-Setapar,
S.H. 2016. Application of herbal extract and
its medicinal value. Der Pharmacia Lettre8(9):
161-167.
Becker,
L.C. 2013. Safety Assessment of Phytosterols as
Used in Cosmetics. Washington: Cosmetic Ingredient Review.
Belova,
N. & Eilks, I. 2015. Learning with and about advertising in chemistry education with a
lesson plan on natural cosmetics-A case study. Chemistry Education
Research and Practice 16: 578-588.
Beoy,
L.A., Woei, W.J. & Hay, Y.K. 2010. Effects of tocotrienol supplementation on
hair growth in human volunteers. Tropical Life Sciences Research 21(2):
91-99.
Bhide,
D.R., Karadbhajne, V.Y., Khotpal,
R.R. & Kulkarni, A.S. 2013. Fatty acids
distribution in lipids of orange and tomato seeds of Vidarbha region (Maharashtra). Journal of Chemical and Pharmaceutical Research 5(4):
13-15.
Bialek,
A., Bialek, M., Jelinska,
M. & Tokarz, A. 2016. Fatty acid profile of new promising unconventional plant oils for cosmetic use. International Journal of Cosmetic Science 38: 382-388.
Boskabady,
M.H., Shafei, M.N., Saberi,
Z. & Amini, S. 2011. Pharmacological
effects of Rosa damascena. Iranian
Journal of Basic Medical Sciences 14(4): 295-307.
Chattuwatthana,
T. & Okello, E. 2015. Anti-collagenase, anti-elastase and antioxidant activities of Pueraria candolleivar. mirificaroot extract and Coccinia grandisfruit juice extract: An in vitro study. European Journal of Medicinal Plants 5(4): 318-327.
Choi,
Y.K., Rho, Y.K., Yoo, K.H., Lim, Y.Y., Li, K., Kim,
B.J., Seo, S.J., Kim, M.N., Hong, C.K. & Kim,
D.S. 2010. Effects of vitamin C vs. multivitamin on melanogenesis:
Comparative study in vitro and in vivo. International Journal
of Dermatology 49: 218-226.
Chuarienthong, P., Lourith,
N. & Leelapornpisid, P. 2010. Clinical
efficacy comparison of anti-wrinkle cosmetics containing herbal flavonoids. International Journal of Cosmetic Science 32: 99-106.
Corley, J.W. 2007. Natural and organic:
The emerging revolution. In Natural and Organics in Cosmetics: From R and D
to the Marketplace, edited by Lawrence, B.M. USA: Allured Publishing
Corporation. pp. 55-66.
Costa, I.M. 2015. Phytocosmetics - Where nature meets well-being. International Journal of Phytocosmetics and Natural Ingredients 2(1): 1-3.
DLT Beauty. 2017. The Best Essential
Oils for Dry Lips. http://
darklipstips.com/essential-oils-for-dry-lips.html. Accessed
on 11 July 2017.
Dorland, W.A.N. 2000. Dorland’s
Illustrated Medical Dictionary (29th ed).
Philadelphia, PA, USA: W.B. Saunders Company.
Dwivedi, V. & Tripathi, S. 2014. Review study on potential activity of Piper betle. Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry3(4): 93-98.
Eikani, M.H., Golmohammad, F., Rowshanzamir, S. & Mirza, M. 2005. Recovery of water-soluble constituents of rose oil using
simultaneous distillation-extraction. Flavour and Fragrance Journal 20: 555-558.
Emerald, M., Emerald, A., Emerald, L. & Kumar, V. 2016. Perspective of natural products in skincare. Pharmacy & Pharmacology International Journal 4(3): 72.
Fahimdanesh, M. & Bahrami, M.E. 2013. Evaluation of physicochemical properties of
Iranian tomato seed oil. Journal of Nutrition & Food Sciences 3(3):
1-4.
FDA/CFSAN. 2002. Is it a Cosmetic, a Drug or Both (or is it Soap?). US: Food and Drug
Administration.
Foo-trakul, P. & Watchiradatsatiean,
C. 2005. Development of
anti-dandruff shampoo from kaffir lime which is the by-product of food
industry. Kasetsart Journal (Natural
Science) 39: 725-729.
Fowler Jr., J.F., Woolery-Lloyd, H., Waldorf, H. & Saini, R.
2010. Innovations in natural ingredients and their use in skin care. Journal
of Drugs and Dermatology 9(6): 72-81.
Global Market Insights Inc. 2016. Organic
Cosmetic Ingredients Market Size, Industry Analysis Report, Regional Outlook
(U.S., Germany, UK, Italy, Russia, China, India, Japan, South Korea, Brazil,
Mexico, Saudi Arabia, UAE, South Africa), Application Development Potential,
Price Trend, Competitive Market Share & Forecast, 2016 - 2023. https://
www.gminsights.com/industry-analysis/organic-cosmetic-ingredients-market. Accessed on 8 March 2017.
González-Mu˜noz, P., Conde-Salazar, L. & Va˜nó-Galván,
S. 2014. Allergic contact dermatitis caused by
cosmetic products. Actas Dermosifiliograficas105(9): 822-832.
Grand View Research, Inc. 2016. Organic Personal Care Market Size to Reach USD25.1 Billion by
2025. http://
www.grandviewresearch.com/press-release/global-organic-personal-care-market. Accessed on 7 March 2017.
Hassanien, M.M.M., Abdel-Razek, A.G., Rudzińska, M., Siger, A., Ratusz, K. & Przybylski, R.
2014. Phytochemical contents and oxidative stability
of oils from non-traditional sources. European Journal of Lipid
Science and Technology 116: 1563-1571.
History of Cosmetics. 2017. Timeline of Cosmetics. www.
historyofcosmetics.net/cosmetic-history/ Accessed on 14 March 2017.
Ionescu (Bordei), N., Ivopol,
G.C., Neagu, M., Popescu,
M. & Meghea, A. 2015. Fatty acids and antioxidant activity in
vegetable oils used in cosmetic formulations. UPB Science Bulletin
Series B 77(3): 39-48.
Javed, S. & Atta-ur-Rahman. 2014. Aloe vera gel in food, health
products, and cosmetics industry. In Studies in
Natural Products Chemistry, Vol. 41, edited by Atta-ur-Rahman,
Oxford, UK: Elsevier B.V. pp. 261-285.
Joshi, L.S. & Pawar, H.A. 2015. Herbal cosmetics and cosmeceuticals: An overview. Natural
Products Chemistry & Research 3(170): 1-8.
Jung, J.Y., Kwon, H.H., Hong, J.S., Yoon, J.Y., Park, M.S., Jang,
M.Y. & Suh, D.H. 2014. Effect of dietary
supplementation with omega-3 fatty acid and gamma-linolenic acid on acne
vulgaris: A randomised, doubleblind,
controlled trial. Acta Dermato-Venereologica 94: 521-525.
Kadam Vaishali, S., Chintale Ashwini, G., Deshmukh Kshitija,
P. & Nalwad Digambar,
N. 2013. Cosmeceuticals an emerging concept: A
comprehensive review. International Journal of Research in Pharmacy and
Chemistry 3(2): 308-316.
Kamakshi, R. 2012. Fairness via
formulations: A review of cosmetic skin-lightening ingredients. Journal of
Cosmetic Science 63: 43-54.
Kasuan, N., Muhammad, Z., Yusof, Z., Rahiman, M.H.F., Taib, M.N. & Haiyee, Z.A. 2013. Extraction of Citrus hystrixD.C. (kaffir
lime) essential oil using automated steam distillation process: Analysis of volatiole compounds. Malaysian Journal of Analytical
Sciences 17(3): 359-369.
Kim, M.J., Doh, H.J., Choi, M.K., Chung,
S.J., Shim, C.K., Kim, D.D., Kim, J.S., Yong, C.S. & Choi, H.G. 2008. Skin permeation enhancement of diclofenac by fatty acids. Drug
Delivery 15(6): 373-379.
Kong, R., Cui, Y., Fisher, G.J., Wang, X., Chen, Y., Schneider,
L.M. & Majmudar, G. 2016. A
comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological,
molecular, and clinical properties of human skin. Journal of Cosmetic
Dermatology 15: 49-57.
Kumar, D., Rajora, G., Parkash, O., Himanshu, Antil, M. & Kumar, V. 2016. Herbal cosmetics - A review. International
Journal of Advanced Scientific Research 1(4): 36-41.
Kusumawati, I. & Indrayanto, G. 2013. Chapter 15: Natural antioxidants in cosmetics. In Studies in
Natural Products Chemistry (Vol 40), edited by Atta-ur-Rahman,
F.R.S. Oxford, UK: Elsevier B.V. pp. 485-595.
Lambert, T. 2017. A
Timeline of Cosmetics and Make Up. www.
localhistories.org/cosmeticstime.html. Accessed on 14 March
2017.
Le Floc'h, C., Cheniti,
A., Connétable, S., Piccardi,
N., Vincenzi, C. & Tosti,
A. 2015. Effect of a nutritional
supplement on hair loss in women. Journal of Cosmetic
Dermatology 14: 76-82.
Lee, N-Y., Wong, L.P., Siti Hamidah M-S., Zuhaili, I., Mohd Azizi C.Y. & Ida-Idayu, M. 2014. Application of rubber (Hevea
brasiliensis) seeds oil extracted
using supercritical carbon dioxide in cosmetics. Jurnal
Teknologi 69(4): 55-59.
Ma, Y., Ma, J., Yang, T., Cheng, W., Lu, Y., Cao, Y., Wang, J.
& Feng, S. 2014. Componets,
antioxidant and antibacterial activity of tomato seed oil. Food Science and
Technology Research 20(1): 1-6.
Martorana, M., Arcoraci, T. & Rizza, L. 2013. In vitro antioxidant and in vivo photoprotective effect of pistachio (Pistacia veraL., variety Bronte)
seed and skin extracts. Fitoterapia 85:
41-48.
Masri, R., Ismail, R. &
Ahmad, S. 2002. Palm-based cosmetic products with roselle extract. MPOB Information Series. pp.
156-160.
Matthews, I. 2007. Naturals hit mainstream. In Natural and
Organics in Cosmetics: From R and D to the Marketplace, edited by Lawrence,
B.M. USA: Allured Publishing Corporation. pp. 17-20.
Owh,
C., Chee, P.L. & Loh, X.J. 2016. A global analysis of the personal care
market. In Polymers in Personal
Care Products and Cosmetics, edited by Loh,
X.J. London: Royal Society of Chemistry.
Palombo, P., Fabrizi, G., Ruocco, V., Ruoccom, E., Fluhr, J., Roberts,
R. & Morganti, P. 2007. Beneficial long-term
effects of combined oral/topical antioxidant treatment with the carotenoids
lutein and zeaxanthin on human skin: A double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Skin
Pharmacology and Physiology 20: 199-210.
Pandel,
R., Poljŝak, B., Godic,
A. & Dahmane, R. 2013. Skin photoaging and the role of
antioxidants in its prevention. ISRN Dermatology 2013: 1-11.
Peng,
W.L., Khanafi, M.A., Setapar,
S.H.M., Idham, Z., Yunus,
M.A.C. & Abbas, M.Z.A. 2014. Development of emulsification containing natural colorant from
local plant (Roselle). Jurnal Teknologi (Sciences & ngineering) 69(4): 15-17.
Personal
Care Products Council. 2016. A History of Cosmetics from
Ancient Times. www.cosmeticinfo.org . Accessed on 14 March 2017.
Prapun, R., Cheetangdee, N. & Udomrati,
S. 2016. Characterization of virgin coconut oil (VCO) recovered by different
techniques and fruit maturities. International Food Research Journal 23(5):
2117-2124.
Puglia,
C. & Bonina, F. 2008. In vivo spectrophotometric evaluation of skin barrier
recovery after topical application of soybean phytosterols. Journal of Cosmetic Science 59: 217-224.
Quirin,
K.W. 2011. Phytosterol-rich extracts
and anti-aging benefits. Euro Cosmetics 19: 16-18.
Rele,
A.S. & Mohile, R.B. 2003. Effect of mineral oil, sunflower oil, and coconut oil on prevention
of hair damage. Journal of Cosmetic Science 54: 175-192.
Ruszova, E., Cheel, J. & Pavek, S.
2013. Epilobium angustifolium extract demonstrates multiple effects on dermal fibroblasts in vitro and
skin photo-protection in vivo. General Physiology and Biophysics
32: 347-359.
Saba. 2016. 15 Best Benefits and Uses of Beta Carotene for Skin, Hair and Health.
http://www.stylecraze.com/ Accessed on 15 March 2017.
Sato,
K. & Toriyama, M. 2009. Depigmenting effect of catechins. Molecules 14: 4425-4432.
Scarmo,
S., Cartmel, B., Lin, H., Leffell,
D.J., Welch, E., Bhosale, P., Bernstein, P.S. &
Mayne, S.T. 2010. Significant
correlations of dermal total carotenoids and dermal lycopene with their
respective plasma levels in healthy adults. Archives of Biochemistry
and Biophysics 504(1): 34-39.
Sevin,
A., Oztas, P. & Senen,
D. 2007. Effects of polyphenols on skin damage due to
ultraviolet A rays: An experimental study on rats. Journal
of European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology 21: 650-656.
Shafiei,
Z., Shuhairi, N.N., Yap, N.M.F.S., Sibungkil, C.A.H. & Latip, J.
2012. Antibacterial activity of Myristica fragransagainst oral pathogens. Evidence-Based
Complementary and Alternative Medicine 2012: Article ID 825362.
Shinkafi,
S.A. & Ndanusa, H. 2013. Antibacterial activity of Citrus limon on Acnevulgaris(pimples). International
Journal of Science Inventions Today 2(5): 397-409.
Singh,
D.K., Luqman, S. & Mathur,
A.K. 2015. Lawsonia inermisL. - A commercially important primaeval dying and medicinal plant with diverse
pharmacological activity: A review. Industrial Crops and Products 65:
269-286.
Soto,
M.L., Falqué, E. & Domínguez,
H. 2015. Relevance of natural phenolics from grape and derivative products in formulation
of cosmetics. Cosmetics 2: 259-276.
Soukoulis,
S. & Hirsch, R. 2004. The effects of a tea tree
oil-containing gel on plaque and chronic gingivitis. Australian Dental
Journal 49(2): 78-83.
Sun,
Y., Lin, Y., Cao, X., Xiang, L. & Qi, J. 2014. Sterols from Mytilidae show anti-aging and neuroprotective
effects via anti-oxidative activity. International Journal of Molecular
Sciences 15: 21660-21673.
Srivastava,
V., Dubey, S. & Mishra, A. 2013. A review on
lemon grass: Agricultural and medicinal aspect. International Research
Journal of Pharmacy 4(8): 42-44.
Telang,
P.S. 2013. Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian
Dermatology Online Journal 4(2): 143-146.
Teo,
W.L., Gan, E., Jinghan, A., Chuah, S.Y. & Alain, K. 2015. Double blind placebo controlled trial to evaluate of the effectiveness of a
dietary supplement rich in carotenoids as adjunct to topical lightening cream
for the treatment of melasma: A pilot study. Pigmentary
Disorders 2(164): 1-6.
Thornfeldt, C.
2005. Cosmeceuticals containing herbs: Fact, fiction, and future. Dermatologic
Surgery 31(7 Pt 2): 873‐880.
Uchida,
R., Ishikawa, S. & Tomoda, H. 2014. Inhibition of tyrosinase activity and melanine pigmentation by 2-hydroxytyrosol. Acta Pharmaceutica Sinica B 4(2): 141- 145.
Vermerris,
W. & Nicholson, R. 2006. Phenolic
Compounds Biochemistry. Dordrecht, Netherlands: Springer.
Yogiraj,
V., Goyal, P.K., Chauhan, C.S., Goyal, A. & Vyas, B. 2014. Carica papaya Linn: An overview. International
Journal of Herbal Medicine 2(5): 01-08.
Zillich,
O.V., Schweiggert-Weisz, U., Eismer,
P. & Kerscher, M. 2015. Polyphenols as active ingredients for cosmetic products. International
Journal of Cosmetic Science 37: 455-464.
*Corresponding author; email: sitihamidah@cheme.utm.my